Upper Buena Vista is one of Miami’s best kept secrets. Ok, it’s not so secret, as people definitely talk about it. Yet, no matter how many times you might enjoy a cocktail at Vista or sip Finca’s coffee under the big banyan tree, each visit feels like a discovery. It helps, too, that the tiny nue age shops and eateries change every few months. And, if you visit now, you’ll find some of Miami’s most simple yet creative izakaya at Makimi Sushi.
The state of sushi in Miami had Leonardo Cascitelli mad.
“When I started Makimi, [I felt] there was Latino sushi and high end sushi. Latino sushi is terrible – it’s rice with Heinz sugar as a condiment, whatever fish they put on top, and then eel sauce or spicy mayo,” he says.
“They’re heavy and everything tastes the same. And then high end sushi, I don’t think we’re ready for that [in Miami]. Of course, there are people who can really appreciate it, but it’s focused on the fish, because that’s what sushi means – a cut of raw fish. What I tried to find was the in between of those two worlds, using good quality fish, the best rice, and the best vinegar to bring out the flavor from the fish.”
And so, the Venezuelan native did what any professionally trained chef-turned-restaurateur would do: he created his own concept. Makimi is not omakase, but it is a sushi experience with pomp and circumstance that won’t burn a hole through your pocket. You won’t find rolls with mango and cream cheese, or fried plantains and grilled chicken. Instead you’ll delight in simple slices of freshly cured fish, with a squeeze of zesty lime here, sprinkle of Maldon sea salt there and the most precise tweezer-sized dot of wasabi to top things off. It’s all made by the skilled hands of Jose Mario, a Phillipino sushi chef who’s honed his skills at Miami’s best Japanese concepts, from Komodo to Makto to the Setai.
Leo himself has been in the F&B industry for two decades. “I started business school in Venezuela around 17, and flunked everything. My dad said ‘Dude, what are you doing with your life, and my money?’ I told him I wanted to become a Chef, so he bought me a ticket and sent me to my uncle’s house in Italy. I started culinary school and was hired as cheap labor, like an internship.”
His culinary career has taken him all over Europe, from Torino and other parts of Italy to Belgium to London. Prior to opening Makimi, he partnered with Master Chef Israel winner Tom Aviv on Pica Pica Express, an Israeli deli at Upper Buena Vista with fresh and creative kosher sandwiches.
We went through an entire tasting menu of fresh fish paired with natural wines and sake (for dessert!) which Leo has expertly curated himself. First came the hamachi sashimi, topped with a dollop of chives and pesto, followed by an avocado and salmon hand roll which at $10, is a perfect midday schnack or post roll finisher if you’re still hungry. Then we enjoyed a super spicy tuna roll which was, as you can imagine, super spicy. We continued with salmon sashimi, which is Makimi’s take on a “Latino roll” and is the perfect bite on a hot Miami day. It’s sprinkled with Maldon sea salt and a little lime zest. Simplicity and perfection are one and the same.
From the “Not Sushi” menu, we enjoyed the octopus and roasted russet potatoes, smushed with a paring knife and drizzled generously with fresh olive oil. And finally, we finished off with what could be considered a heavy roll, but was, in fact, the perfect way to land the lunch: an eel hand roll with Kewpie mayonnaise. In a venn diagram, this would fall between savory sushi and dessert.
Whether you’re looking for a new date night spot or you want a special spot for lunch (they’ve got poké bowls, too!), Makimi is one of Miami’s most underrated bets on sushi spots – and it’s definitely worth another visit to Upper Buena Vista.